Two clinical studies were conducted to evaluate the tolerance and effects of a copolymer of chitin and beta-glucan, forming the exoskeleton of fungal cell walls, now supplied for cosmetic applications. A 6-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted on 13 volunteers with sensitive skin to compare with 0.5–2% formulations chitin–glucan applied twice daily. Biometrological evaluations showed that erythema did not develop, the water retention capacity of the stratum corneum increased and the transepidermal water loss moderately decreased. Another 16-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted on 20 men showing signs of ageing skin. A 1.5% chitin–glucan formulation was applied twice daily. Objective biometrological assessments showed a progressive increase in skin firmness and stratum corneum hydration when desquamation and skin roughness decreased. In conclusion, the chitin–glucan formulations appear safe. They significantly mitigate some signs of skin ageing and improve both stratum corneum hydration and skin barrier function.
S. Gautier1, E. Xhauflaire-Uhoda2, P. Gonry3, G. E. Piérard2
Article first published online: 5 NOV 2008
DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00470.x International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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