Skin Care Research
News & Research: Science is at the heart of what we do
At Marie Veronique Organics we rely on our own diligent research, as well as the work of industry experts and skin care studies. Together, this body of research tells us what’s safe and what’s not, what works and what doesn’t. And now we want to let you in on it, too.


Beneficial Ingredients

Benefits of Topical l-ascorbic acid

Topical ascorbic acid accelerates the healing of wounds as it aids in stabilizing and generation of collagen. This vitamin stimulates collagen synthesis, production of stable collagen and triggers the production of enzymes that is necessary for the cross linking of collagen molecule which in turn gives better tissue strength.

Topical vitamin C performs three different functions in skin metabolism: as an antioxidant, as an inhibitor of melanin, and as a stimulator of collagen synthesis. As an antioxidant, vitamin C prevents or suppresses the development of skin cancer caused by UVA and UVB exposure. As a melanin inhibitor, vitamin C helps to lighten the skin. And by stimulating collagen synthesis, vitamin C accelerates skin firming and helps to prevent fine lines.

Beta Glucan to Fight Aging

The study, published in the current issue of International Journal of Cosmetic Science, is the first to show that oat beta glucan can penetrate the skin despite years of doctors and scientists believing that the large molecule was too big.

The finding is significant, not only in the treatment of skin disorders and removing fine lines and wrinkles but in the promotion of wound healing and reduction in scaring following surgical procedures, says Dr. Mark Redmond, president and CEO of Ceapro Inc, a spin-off company formed in the late 1980s to commercialize technology from the University of Alberta's faculties of pharmacy and medicine for the treatment of cold sores.

Chitin-Glucan, Natural Cell Scaffold for Skin Moisturization and Rejuvenation

Two clinical studies were conducted to evaluate the tolerance and effects of a copolymer of chitin and beta-glucan, forming the exoskeleton of fungal cell walls, now supplied for cosmetic applications. A 6-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted on 13 volunteers with sensitive skin to compare with 0.5–2% formulations chitin–glucan applied twice daily. Biometrological evaluations showed that erythema did not develop, the water retention capacity of the stratum corneum increased and the transepidermal water loss moderately decreased. Another 16-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted on 20 men showing signs of ageing skin.

Chitin-Nanofibrils: A New Active Cosmetic Carrier

The cosmetic industry has evolved over the last 50 to 60 years from an era of secret formulas, elusive promises and false hope to an entirely new industry based on science. No longer are the cosmetic giants isolated scions, but there is an ever growing interactions and interdependence among cosmeceutical, pharmaceutical, biochemical, and medical community. Thus new development has been successfully translated into more effective treatments as well as preventive treatments of dry or aging skin, as example.

At this purpose, active compounds of new cosmetic products has to be carefully selected to obtain the best efficacy and safeness. Thus innovative cosmetics have become more sophisticated in both formulations and presentation meanwhile new tests have been developed to ensure not only quality and safety but also the validation of products claims.

Coffee Berry Extracts

The polyphenol anti-oxidants contained within the ingredient are believed to prevent cellular damage in skin when applied externally. The CoffeeBerry anti-oxidant content is also thought to be three times greater than that of green tea, a market leading antioxidant in skin-care products. A test carried out on women aged 35 to 60 in an independent laboratory over three weeks proved the extract to also be more beneficial on wrinkles, dry skin and discoloration.

According to Allure Magazine 'The texture and tone of the skin treated with CoffeeBerry extract showed 46 per cent improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, 64 per cent in overall skin smoothness, and 79 per cent in skin hydration.' Research reports that Coffeeberries, the outer layer of the coffee fruit research, has 400 mg of concentrate that has a radical scavenging activity equal to 9.6 grams of fresh blueberries, 6.2 grams of strawberries, or 4.9 grams of raspberries. This potent anti-radical power has not been commercially available previously because the fruit rapidly perishes, which is why only the bitter seed has been commercially exploited.

Glucosamine and Anti-Aging

The American Academy of Dermatology says that a recent study shows that glucosamine could prove to be an effective topical treatment to reverse the effects of skin cells damaged by UV exposure. Glucosamine is currently used in the treatment of arthritis patients in the US, but a series of studies that were presented at the Acadamy's annual meeting indicate that the topical application of the supplement can normalize pigment overproduction in skin cells, something which is normally due to UV exposure.

Glucosamine is extracted from the shell of crabs, lobster and shrimps, and also marketed by Cargill is a non-animal, non-shelfish derived product. Chondroitin sulfate is extracted from animal cartilage like shark cartilage. They are the most commonly used supplements for osteoarthritis, with estimated sales of $730m in the US in 2004.

Green Tea Extract Protection Against UV Damage: Study

Topical application of low dose green tea extract may help protect against UV damage, without the common side effects.

Guarana Extract

Extracts from the exotic fruit guarana showed excellent antioxidant and antibacterial properties, which could see the exotic berry making a move into cosmetics, new research suggests.

Hyaluronic Acid

The skin matrix is what would remain if you took the dermis (the fibrous middle layer of the skin) and removed all cells from it. The skin matrix is responsible for structural integrity, mechanical resilience, stability and many other properties of the skin

Inhibition of Oxidative Injury of Biological Membranes by Astaxanthin

The value of astaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, in the treatment of oxidative injury is assessed. Astaxanthin protects the mitochondria of vitamin E-deficient rats from damage by Fe2(+)-catalyzed lipid peroxidation both in vivo and in vitro.

Influence of flavonoids and vitamins on the MMP

Influence of flavonoids and vitamins on the MMP and TIMP-expression of human dermal fibroblasts after UVA irradiation.

Lactic Acid for Natural Anti-Aging, Skin Lightening and Anti-Acne

Lactic acid is being discovered all over again, as new nformation emerges showing that it useful as a probiotic in anti-acne treatments. Lactic acid is the gentlest of the alpha hydroxy acids; it is also very versatile and has great utility in treating a number of different skin conditions. These three posts look at the benefits of LA from three different points of view: anti-aging, skin lightening and anti-acne.

Niacinamide: an anti-aging powerhouse

The track record of topical vitamins in skin rejuvenation has been mixed at best. A few, such as vitamins A and C, do provide some benefits if properly stabilized and applied in sufficient concentrations. It appears that another vitamin, niacinamide, should be added to this select group.

Ingredients to Avoid

Toxic or damaging to skin

Alarming Results From New Study Supports Concerns About Use Of TiO2 Nanoparticles in Personal Care Products

Scientists at the University of Plymouth have shown, for the first time in an animal, that nanoparticles have a detrimental effect on the brain and other parts of the central nervous system.

Benzoyl Peroxide Cautions and FDA Category Changes

Use of benzoyl peroxide to control acne may involve side effects and risks that should be considered in making decisions on acne treatment. BiON has given particular attention to providing effective treatment with no side effects and no benzoyl peroxide.

Effect of benzoyl peroxide on antioxidant status, NF-κB activity and interleukin-1α gene expression in human keratinocytes

These results demonstrate that BP induces an inflammatory reaction mediated by oxidative stress by a pathway independent of the redox-sensitive transcription factor NF-κB.

Sun-Protected Skin and Collagen Synthesis

Estradiol may stimulate collagen levels in sun protected skin. Topical estradiol can induce collagen synthesis but only in skin not exposed to sunlight, according to a recent study from scientists in Michigan.

Titanium Dioxide: Toxic or Safe?

Titanium dioxide is the subject of new controversy, yet it is a substance as old as the earth itself. It is one of the top fifty chemicals produced worldwide. It is a white, opaque and naturally- occurring mineral found in two main forms: rutile and anatase.

Toxic Fragrances: Making Sense of Scents

Perfumes are increasingly used in an ever wider variety of fields, including perfumes proper, cosmetic products, hygenic products, drugs, detergents and other household products, plastics, industrial greases, oils and solvents, foods, etc. Their composition is usually complex - it involves numerous natural and synthetic sweet-smelling constituents, more than 5,000 of which are known. Perfumes may produce toxic and more often allergic respiratory disorders (asthma), as well as neurological and cutaneous disorders.

Endocrine disruptors

Endocrine Activity of Parabens and Implications for Potential Risks to Human Health

Parabens are a group of the alkyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid and typically include methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, and benzylparaben. Parabens (or their salts) are widely used as preservatives in cosmetics, toiletries, and pharmaceuticals due to their relatively low toxicity profile and a long history of safe use.

Endocrine disruptors and rat adrenocortical function

The effects of four endocrine disruptors: resveratrol, diphenylolpropane (bisphenol-A; BSP), benzophenone-3 (BP3) and silymarin on the secretory and proliferative activity of rat adrenocortical cells were investigated in vitro. Resveratrol and BP3 acutely increased basal corticosterone secretion from freshly dispersed adrenocortical cells, and resveratrol and BSP enhanced ACTH-stimulated cells.

Our Stolen Future: About Phthalates

Phthalates are a class of widely used industrial compounds known technically as dialkyl or alkyl aryl esters of 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid. There are many phthalates with many uses, and just as many toxicological properties.

Scientists Warn of Low-Dose Risks of Chemical Exposure

A new study finds that even low doses of hormone-disrupting chemicals — used in everything from plastics to pesticides – can have serious effects on human health. These findings, the researchers say, point to the need for basic changes in how chemical safety testing is conducted.

Triclosan in Bioassay Screens

Concerns have been raised about the biological and toxicologic effects of the antimicrobials triclocarban (TCC) and triclosan (TCS) in personal care products. Few studies have evaluated their biological activities in mammalian cells to assess their potential for adverse effects.

Skin Conditions

Adult acne

An update on the pathogenesis and management of acne vulgaris

Acne vulgaris is an easily recognizable dermatologic disease. It is also very common. Acne is seen in nearly 100% of individuals at some time during their lives. Small, noninflamed acne lesions may not be more than a slight nuisance but, in individuals with more severe inflammatory nodular acne, pain, social embarrassment, and both physical and psychological scarring can be life altering. Fortunately, our understanding of the pathogenesis of acne has progressed and our therapeutic armamentarium has greatly expanded in the last twenty-five years.

How Pantothenic Acid Unveils the Mysteries of Acne Vulgaris and Obesity

In reviewing the numerous studies that deal with the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris, and one gets the impression of reading a detective story. There is the victim. The facts are all there. There are all the clues, as well as the suspects. But the culprit cannot be identified. The identification is made the more difficult because the clues seem all tangled up. At times, they fit in with the suspects very well, other times however, the same clues are contradictory, and appear to lead to a hopeless situation. In the same way, it is quite a mystery that an over-weight person, with an abundance of energy deposited as fat depot, cannot efficiently use this stored fat in times of need as during dieting when food intake does not meet the energy demand. Not only is this precious stored unavailable,I n some cases it is actually squandered.

Pantothenic Acid, B5 for Acne

In this article we will present to you information about Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) as a treatment for acne. We will explain the role of Vitamin B5 in the metabolism of fats and oils, and how increasing the metabolism of oils will reduce oil accumulation in the skin, and thereby reduce or eliminate acne. Both Accutane and Vitamin B5 work by different mechanisms. Accutane works by shrinking the sebaceous glands at the root of the hair follicles. However, Vitamin B5 works by reducing the oil production of the sebaceous glands. This is done by increasing Coenzyme A (Co-A) which increases the metabolic breakdown of oils by normal activity of cell physiology.

Skin tumor-promoting activity of benzoyl peroxide, a widely used free radical-generating compound

A single topical application of benzoyl peroxide produced a marked epidermal hyperplasia and induced a large number of dark basal keratinocytes, effects similar to those produced by the potent tumor promoter 12-O-tetradecanoyl phorbol-13-acetate. Benzoyl peroxide, like other known tumor promoters, also inhibited metabolic cooperation (intercellular communication) in Chinese hamster cells.

Aging

Anti-aging Potential in Fat Molecule

Scientists in South Korea claim to have uncovered a fat molecule with strong anti-aging potential from tests on the ability of lipids to fight skin aging.

Resveratrol in prevention and treatment of common clinical conditions of aging

Resveratrol is a potent member of the class of natural, plant-derived chemicals known as polyphenols. These help explain in part why a diet high in fruit and vegetables confers health benefits and are associated with reduced risk of common complex conditions such as cardiovascular disease, cancer, diabetes, and Alzheimer’s disease.

Ultraviolet A radiation-induced biological effects in human skin

In this review, our current knowledge about the signal transduction pathway involved in UVA radiation-induced expression of proinflammatory genes relevant to the pathogenesis of polymorphous light eruption will be summarized.

UVA and aging -- the future of sun protection

The sun emits light at all different wavelengths, including x rays and radio waves, but 99% of its output is in the form of ultraviolet (UV), visible and infrared (IR) light.

UVA Protection as an Anti-aging Strategy: a ten point information guide

The following facts are summarized from an article by Sheldon R. Pinnell, MD and Doren L. Madey, PhD, which appeared in the peer-reviewed Aesthetic Surgery Journal...

Why Lipids and Sunscreen are Your Best Protection Against Dehydration, Aging and Breakouts

It is a truism in natural circles that your body does its best job fighting off disease and healing itself when it has the nutritional wherewithal to do so. This notion has even more applicability when it comes to treating your skin.

Hyperpigmentation

Sun's Rays May Leave Mysterious Marks

For adults and children alike, summer is the season to take in the mystery of the outdoors, its unexpected pleasures and hidden thrills. But summer has its share of unpleasant discoveries, too — as dermatologists know all too well. For this is also the season of the mystery rash. "This time of year, a lot of people come in with rashes and have no idea what happened," said Dr. Deborah S. Sarnoff, a dermatologist in New York.

Rosacea

Rosacea or Adult Acne?

Sensitive skin, rosacea, adult acne—how can you tell where you fit? A recent article in the New York Times by Camille Sweeney, “In a Perfect World, Rosacea Remains a Problem” suggests that rosacea has become “the new cellulite.”

Botox

Long-Distance Retrograde

Effects of Botulinum Neurotoxin A

Why Darwin Would Have Loved Botox

The latest news on Botox is that it may actually shut down parts of the brain. This information comes from a recent article by Carl Zimmer, "Why Darwin Would Have Loved Botox."

Nanotechnology

Amid Nanotech's Promise, Health Risks Grow

For almost two years, molecular biologist Bénédicte Trouiller doused the drinking water of scores of lab mice with nano-titanium dioxide, the most common nanomaterial used in consumer products today.

Brian Gulson Research Study on Nanoparticles

Independent research on sunscreens is turning up some interesting findings. According to The Australian and ABC “Geochemist Brian Gulson, of Sydney's Macquarie University, has provided the first conclusive evidence that zinc oxide nanoparticles...

Deleterious effects of sunscreen titanium dioxide nanoparticles on DNA: efforts to limit DNA damage

Sunlight can have deleterious effects on humans: causes sunburns and is the principal cause of skin cancers. Usage of TiO2 (and ZnO) in sunscreen lotions, widely used as UVA/UVB blockers, and intended to prevent sunburns and to protect consumers from skin cancers (carcinomas and melanomas) is examined.

Discussion paper on nanotechnology standardisation and nomenclature issues

Friends of the Earth Australia recommends defining nanoparticles as ‘particles having one or more dimensions measuring approximately 0.3 nanometres (nm) to 300 nm, or particles which have structures that exist at this scale’ for the purposes of health and safety assessment.

FDA takes ‘first step’ toward greater regulatory certainty around nanotechnology

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration today released draft guidance to provide regulated industries with greater certainty about the use of nanotechnology, which generally involves materials made up of particles that are one billionth of a meter in size. The guidance outlines the agency’s view on whether regulated products contain nanomaterials or involve the application of nanotechnology.

Lipid nanoparticles mediated cell uptake of resveratrol

That was prevented by loading it into solid lipid nanoparticles, which preserved cell morphology. The cytostatic effect of SLN–RSV was much more expressed than that of RSV in solution. Delivery of RSV by SLN contributes to effectiveness of RSV on decreasing cell proliferation, with potential benefits for prevention of skin cancer.

MVO Particle Size Profile

A US Consumer’s Union series of investigations prompted them to write a letter to the FDA asking that the organization require a full safety assessment on the use of nanoparticles in cosmetics, sunscreens and sunblocks before a product is allowed to market.

Nanoparticles can cause DNA damage across a cellular barrier

The increasing use of nanoparticles in medicine has raised concerns over their ability to gain access to privileged sites in the body. Here, we show that cobalt–chromium nanoparticles (29.5 6.3 nm in diameter) can damage human fibroblast cells...

Nanoparticles Damage DNA Remotely: Study

Nanoparticles used in medical applications can indirectly damage DNA inside cells by transmitting signals through a protective barrier of human tissue, says UK researchers.

Nanoparticles in Polluted Air, Smoke & Nanotechnology Products Have Serious Impact On Health

New groundbreaking research by scientists at Trinity College Dublin has found that exposure to nanoparticles can have a serious impact on health, linking it to rheumatoid arthritis and the development of other serious autoimmune diseases. The findings that have been recently published in the international journal Nanomedicine have health and safety implications for the manufacture, use and ultimate disposal of nanotechnology products and materials. They also identified new cellular targets for the development of potential drug therapies in combating the development of autoimmune diseases.

Nano-Sunscreens Leave Their Mark

Painted metal roofs are cheap, convenient, and usually very durable. But over the past two years, a rash of accelerated ageing has blighted pre-painted steel roofing in Australia.

New Products Bring Side Effect: Nanophobia

It sounds like a plot straight out of a science-fiction novel by Michael Crichton. Toiletry companies formulate new cutting-edge creams and lotions that contain tiny components designed to work more effectively.

Obama’s EPA Poised To Crack Down on Nanotech

Under agency chief Lisa Jackson, the Obama Administration’s Environmental Protection Agency has promised to tighten regulations on nanomaterials, particles as small as molecules which are used by companies working in fields as varied as cosmetics and advanced materials.

Plastic Nanoparticles Can Move From Mom to Baby Through Placenta

Research shows for the first time that plastic nanoparticles can cross the human placenta, possibly exposing the developing fetus to the tiny materials that are increasingly used in medicines, vaccines and personal care products.

Sunscreen

Active ingredients in sunscreens act as topical penetration enhancers

Agricultural workers are encouraged to use sunscreen to decrease the risk of UV-related skin cancer. Our previous studies have shown certain commercial sunscreens to be penetration enhancers.

Free Radicals and Sunscreens

Does sunscreen save skin — or damage it? Study alarms some scientists, but don't deep-six your SPF just yet.

Ultraviolet A radiation-induced biological effects in human skin: relevance for photoaging and photodermatosis

There is increasing evidence that longwave ultraviolet (UV) radiation (UVA; 320–400 nm) plays an important role in the pathogenesis of photodermatoses such as polymorphous light eruption as well as photoaging.

Current Sunscreen Controversies: A Critical Review

Sunscreens are believed to be a valuable tool in providing photoprotection against the detrimental effects of UV radiation, a known carcinogen. However, a number of controversies have developed regarding their safety and efficacy. This review summarizes the relevant studies surrounding these controversies.

Microfine Zinc Oxide is a Superior Sunscreen Ingredient to Microfine Titanium Dioxide

We compare microfine zinc oxide and microfine titanium dioxide for their abilities to attenuate UVA radiation and their relative whiteness in cosmetic formulations.

Reactive oxygen species produced upon photoexcitation of sunscreens containing titanium dioxide (an EPR study)

The generation of reactive oxygen radical species upon irradiation of sunscreens significantly depends on their composition, as the additives present (antioxidants, radical-scavengers, solvents) can transform the reactive radicals formed to less harmful products.

Chemical oxidation and DNA damage catalysed by inorganic sunscreen ingredients

Using chemical methods, we show that all sunscreen TiO2 samples tested catalyse the photo-oxidation of a representative organic substrate (phenol). We also show that sunlight-illuminated TiO2 catalyses DNA damage both in vitro and in human cells. These results may be relevant to the overall effects of sunscreens.

Epidemiological Support for an Hypothesis for Melanoma Induction Indicating a Role for UVA Radiation

An hypothesis for melanoma induction is presented: UV radiation absorbed by melanin in melanocytes generates products that may activate the carcinogenic process. Products formed by UV absorption in the upper layers of the epidermis cannot diffuse down as far as to the melanocytes.

Microfine zinc oxide (Z-Cote) as a photostable UVA/UVB sunblock agent

Microfine zinc oxide is an effective and safe sunblock that provides broad-spectrum UV protection, including protection from long-wavelength UVA.

Small Amounts of Zinc from Zinc Oxide Particles in Sunscreens Applied Outdoors Are Absorbed through Human Skin

Metal oxide nanoparticles are commonly used in personal-care formulations as protective agents against exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Although previous research has concluded that nanoparticles do not penetrate healthy skin, it remains contentious whether this conclusion holds under normal conditions of sunscreen use.

Sunscreen penetration of human skin and related keratinocyte toxicity after topical application.

Sunscreen skin penetration and safety assessment should be considered together in order to ensure that in vitro cytotoxicity studies examine relevant doses of these organic chemical UV filters to which viable epidermal cells are realistically exposed.

Titanium Dioxide Nanoparticles Cause Brain Damage in Fish

Scientists at the University of Plymouth have shown, for the first time in an animal, that nanoparticles have a detrimental effect on the brain and other parts of the central nervous system.

Toxicity and penetration of TiO2 nanoparticles in hairless mice and porcine skin after subchronic dermal exposure

The present study investigated the penetration and potential toxicity of titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles following its dermal exposure in vitro and in vivo. In vitro, after exposure to isolated porcine skin for 24 h, titanium dioxide nanoparticles of carious sizes cannot penetrate through stratum corneum.

Potential photocarcinogenic effects of nanoparticle sunscreens

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles are being increasingly formulated in sunscreens. While the same compounds, in larger particle form, work by reflecting UV radiation, in nanoparticle form, they absorb UV radiation, resulting in photocatalysis, releasing reactive oxygen species.



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